Baffin: Day 8 - A different day

The plan was for us to climb. Take a break from carrying our packs and take our chances with Mount Battle, a 1300m peak just above us.

So, we left our base camp standing, left a note for potential newcomers to the refuge, and after an earthy breakfast (we needed the calories) we were ready to go.

08:30 am, ready for a 9 hours turnaround to the summit and back.

After our usual mushy tundra, the first obstacle to overcome was the Rundle River which emanates from the equivalent glacier and feeds the Owl.

This is the first proper river crossing we encounter.

A word about river crossings. River crossings are the only real danger in this expedition. Most streams are crossed on foot, hopping from one stone to another. And there are hundreds. The two major rivers in the park are uncrossable, because of the depth, strength of current and icy cold water. We are crossing the lateral rivers which are generated by the glaciers up hill. And every crossing means trousers off, wearing neoprene socks (to protect against the cold) and some sort of water proof shoes (to keep your main boots dry). I have chosen Crocs which get completely wet but dry almost immediately. Each time we cross a river is a major exercise, to undress and then find the most suitable spot to cross… without drowning.

That morning Randle River is in spate and the water is deep. Both Jason and I decide that trousers won’t do as we shall have to wade right above our knees. We shall get soaked. So, it is down to underwear, which, matched above by my woolly beanie and puff jacket, made the picture very attractive.

In this attire we negotiate the crossing. The water is very, very cold - glacial! My toes go numb immediately. The current is very strong. When crossing you realize that if something happened you could not survive more than 10min in that water.

River crossed is time to start to approach the mountain and the moraine. Our hated mushy bogs are replaced by rocks and boulders; extremely wobbly rocks and boulders. We trudge slowly through the moraine at the base of the mountain and even slower when we start to climb. Every step represents danger; many rocks roll down when we step on them. And we are talking big rocks. 

After 4 hours of climbing, we are just below the ridge; but Sonia has had enough, and she calls it the day. We are at 860m altitude. Considering it would take another 3 hours to get to the summit; and then we would have to come back down; it is probably the right decision. 

We have given it our best.

But the weather is nice, the sun is shining, and we’re regaled with some amazing views of the Rundle Glacier and the surrounding peaks. Most peaks have no names and I propose Marco for the one in front of us. It has a nice gliding glacier and a big jump from the rocks into the valley below.

Before descending though it is time for our snack. Celine introduces us to lichen, the favourite food of caribous (very yellow, not bad taste and a bit gummy). We also have a go at mountain sorrel. Pretty tasteless. Now that we have tasted the local produce, we’re sure we’ll not get hungry on this expedition.

The way down is as bad as the way up and the moraine seems never ending. Three hours later we get to the river. Because of the sun and the ice melting, rivers run much deeper and faster in the afternoon. Rundle is worse than in the morning. We have to walk to the mouth of the river to find a suitable spot for crossing. Underwear again. At least the water seems slightly warmer.

Another 1km of tundra and bogs and we are finally back to camp.

9 hours, 14.6km, no peak.

We lost the Battle!!

Celine tells us failed attempts in the Arctic are more common than successes. Nature and the elements have a way of complicating things.

No one else is in camp. Time for dinner and rest.

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Baffin: Day 9 - 4th day of walking 

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Baffin: Day 6 and 7 - the 2nd and 3rd day of walking - bear track!